Yerington Monday: The Basque (Part Two): Basque Hotels & Restaurants in Northern Nevada

Yerington Monday:  The Basque (Part Two): Basque Hotels & Restaurants in Northern Nevada

Northern Nevada is known for it's large population of Basque communities, largely composed of sheep ranchers.  They originally hail from the northern regions of Spain bordering France on the Bay of Biscay.  They are renown for their cuisine which often centers around lamb and is best served family style.  Gardnerville established in 1879 to serve the farmers of the Carson Valley, Gardnerville has long been famous for the Basque restaurants at the south side of downtown.  Gardnerville is 55 miles from Yerington and 34 miles from Smith & Wellington.  As a child my mom would often drives our family over to Gardnerville to have a Basque dinner on some Sundays.  It was always a treat and fun having dinner with complete strangers sitting at our table.

Only a few years ago the drowsier, more picturesque Basque restaurants (clustered near the south end of town) provided Gardnerville with such fame as it enjoys beyond the confines of the valley. These Basque family-style eating places were originally established to serve the large population of sheepherders from the Pyrenees who wandered with the bands of sheep. In Gardnerville, as in many of northern Nevada's towns, Basques established boarding-house hotels where the sheepherders could stay between jobs or for a two-week vacation. For the non-English-speaking sheepherders the hotels were a special convenience, as well as being inexpensive and hearty feeders.

In time, other town folk came to appreciate the modestly priced suppers served at these workingmen's hotels, and today dining out at one of them is considered a substantial treat. Most of them are still small family operations, with mom and dad supervising a workforce of sons, daughters, aunts, and nephews. They still reserve the first serving for the Basque boarders who have rooms upstairs. All of them have bars, and except in the peak summer months, the clientele is largely local.

Overland Hotel Basque Restaurant

1451 Us Highway 395 N, Gardnerville, NV

The Overland has been an intricate part of Gardnerville since 1902. The old brick building is unassuming, and shows the scars of its long life. Out front, the entrance is marked by a vintage neon sign and little else; a humble home for one of the region's favorite eateries. The immaculate dining room has been host to countless family celebrations in its time.

Overland Hotel Basque Restaurant Marker

J.T. Basque Bar & Dining Room
Gardnerville, Nevada


It all started in 1896 when an early Gardnerville entrepreneur named Hans Nelson bought and moved the building from its original location in the Virginia City, Nevada area. Since then, the authentic Victorian building has served as a hotel, saloon and dining hall throughout its more than 100 year history in downtown Gardnerville. With the exception of the hitching post and horse outside, the Lekumberry family has restored the building's façade to look as it did over 100 years ago.

 

The JT Basque Bar and Dining Room opened Feb. 26, 1955, with owners John and Grace Jaunsaras and Jimmy and Grace Trounday who used their initials to name the bar and has been run by the Lekumberry family since 1960.  At one time, Grace and John owned the Overland, the JT and the Carson Valley Country Club which they turned into a Basque restaurant.  J.B. referred to Grace as the “forbidding chef of Carson Valley,” who taught all the Basque chefs how to cook to her exacting standards.

J.T. Basque has been serving the area for over 50 years.  They are located in the village of Gardnerville, about 40 miles south of Reno.  They have been voted Best Basque Restaurant in the Carson Valley including Reno for more than a decade running.  Their food contains only local grass fed beef, chicken, lamb and vegetables.  Everything is, of course, homemade.

JT Basque Bar and Dining Room Marker

The French Hotel and Bar

1437 US Highway 395 N

Gardnerville, NV 89410

Owned at one time by Baptiste Borda and later leased to the Mitcheo family. Raymond Borda, upon returning from World War II, owned and operated the hotel for many years. The French Hotel was one of the three main Basque hotels in Gardnerville during the 1930's.

In what is now the parking lot to the rear of this building, a pilota court stood with a large fronton, or wall. Pilota is a traditional Basque handball game. In the mid 1930's, teams from as far away as San Francisco would come to play in championship tournaments. The prize money of $1000 (1930's value) gives a clear indication of the caliber of play that was seen here.

Owned at one time by Baptiste Borda and later leased to the Mitcheo family. Raymond Borda, upon returning from World War II, owned and operated the hotel for many years. The French Hotel was one of the three main Basque hotels in Gardnerville during the 1930's.

In what is now the parking lot to the rear of this building, a pilota court stood with a large fronton, or wall. Pilota is a traditional Basque handball game. In the mid 1930's, teams from as far away as San Francisco would come to play in championship tournaments. The prize money of $1000 (1930's value) gives a clear indication of the caliber of play that was seen here.

The East Fork Hotel

East Fork Hotel, Gardnerville, Nevada. June 1982.

After standing for 120 years, the East Fork was demolished in 2013.

“Inscription. The East Fork Hotel was constructed in 1893 by George and Charley Brown, two brothers who came to Genoa, Nevada with a traveling circus. The Brown Brothers also owned the East Fork Brickyard, providing bricks that were used in many Valley buildings.

The hotel is one of the earliest commercial buildings in Gardnerville. The East Fork advertised, “Excellent accommodations and an excellent livery stable connected” at the turn of the century.

One of three eventual Basque hotels in town, the East Fork provided boarding rooms and meals for Basque shepherds. The two story, 3500 square foot building also was the home for the Borda family who operated the East Fork Hotel in the 1900’s.

Damaged by fire that also destroyed the adjoining bar, the East Fork Hotel awaits restoration.

Restaurante Vasco Carson Valley Country Club Basque Bar & Restaurant

1029 Riverview Dr.

Gardnerville NV 89410

Phone:775.265.3715

Serving the Carson Valley since 1965, the Carson Valley Country Club offers a wide range of traditional Basque and American cuisine.

Since 1965, The Carson Valley Country Club has been proudly serving the Carson Valley with exquisite Basque Food and Family Style Dining. In 2003 Nobert Koblitz and two partners purchased the restaurant and in 2006 he became the sole owner of the Carson Valley Country Club. For Norbert, the love for restaurants began at the age of 15 when he entered his apprenticeship at the Bears Hotel in West Germany. For many years Norbert’s accomplished career took him all over the world where he was the Executive Chef for many fine dining restaurants, hotels and resorts.

When Norbert is asked why Basque? He simply states the Family Style cuisine reminds him of how his family dined back at home in Guldental Germany. He felt that he could bring new inspirations from his roots to create a flair that no other restaurant has. Today, the Carson Valley Country Club prides itself on being Chef owned and Family Operated. Norbert and his family work hard to expand on the traditions of the Carson Valley Country Club and bring all of our dedicated customers something new to enjoy.

Villa Basque Cafe & Deli 730 Basque Way Carson City, Nevada 89706

Locally owned. Villa Basque Cafe is created from the inspiration of Pete and Martha Coscarart. They welcome you to take a fascinating look into Basque culture in Nevada and the American Dream. Built on years of honesty, integrity and hard work, the Villa Basque Deli is home of Pete’s World Famous Chorizo and many other Basque specialties including paella! Take a respite from the ordinary and venture into a new world at VILLA BASQUE CAFE.  Villa Basque Café is located in beautiful Carson City, Nevada and just minutes from historic downtown. The quaint café offers patrons not only a warm reception and family atmosphere but also the absolute best Basque Chorizo in the region–known as “Pete’s Famous Chorizo!”

Villa Basque Deli Home of Pete’s Famous Basque Chorizo The story of the successful restaurant and its owners Pete and Martha Coscarart, is a fascinating look into Basque culture in Nevada and the American Dream they’ve achieved through years of honesty, integrity and hard work. Through this determination, the chorizo for which Villa Basque is famous for, has been enjoyed and celebrated the world over, feeding countless families from coast to coast and American soldiers serving in the Mideast. The history of Pete’s arrival to Nevada at the age of 16 to work as a sheep herder, is one of inspiration. He taught himself the English language, not knowing a lick of it when he arrived. He also taught himself music, (he plays a beautiful accordion). By blending hard work, good humor, solid communication skills and faith in Jesus Christ, He brought this steadfast business acumen to Carson City with the opening of Villa Basque Deli and Cafe 15 years ago. Pete’s famous Chorizo originated in 1984 in Battle Mountain, Nevada. A family recipe that was passed down from generation to generation. Chorizo is traditionally from the Basque region. Basque are people living in a small region that straddles the border of Spain and France, from the sea in the west to the Pyrenees in the east.  Chorizo has formerly been used in paellas, which is a traditional dish in Spain. Chorizo has also been known to be used in stews, chili beans, and sandwiches and even scrambled with eggs for breakfast. Chorizo is naturally air dried and made from 100% pork meat, flavored with garlic, paprika and other spices. It is usually fried or grilled. A unique taste which has become popular in the United States.

Louis' Basque Corner 

301 E. Fourth St., Reno, NV 

89512 (775) 323-7203 

Louis' Basque Corner is just east of downtown Reno at 4th St. and Evans Ave. It's on the ground floor of the old Basque Hotel. In the Basque restaurant tradition, food is served family-style, with seating on benches at long tables. If there is room, another party may end up sharing your table and helping pass around the food. Louis' Basque Corner has been voted best Basque restaurant in Nevada, though I'm not sure when that occurred. It's open Tuesday through Saturday. Lunch is from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and dinner is from 5:00 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Louis and Lorraine Erreguible opened Louis’ Basque Corner in 1967 as a testament to their Basque heritage. An emigrant from Mauleon, Basses Pyrenees, France, and a World War II veteran, Louis’ love of Basque cuisine and experience as a chef at local restaurants led to the renovation of the 1906-built Lincoln Hotel and the start of a Reno tradition. Today, owners Chris Shanks and Brian Elcano carry on Louis’ Basque tradition. The Basque Hotels of the American West were homes-away-from-home for newly immigrated Basques from the Pyrenees Mountains. Normally located over restaurant and bars, the hotels provided a family-like atmosphere for the men who came downstairs to dine together each night at the restaurant’s expansive tables and share in hearty family-style meals. The fare was always simple but expertly prepared. Traditional dishes such as sweetbreads, oxtail, tongue and tripe can still be found on most Basque menus. Louis’ Basque Corner continues this tradition with its family-style seating, traditional menu, and servers outfitted in authentic Basque costumes. The homemade food is expertly prepared, the picon punches flow freely, and the conversation is never lacking. “To us, you’re one of the family.”

Santa Fe Hotel

235 N. Lake St., Reno, NV 89501

(775) 323-1891

The old Santa Fe Hotel is in the shadow of Reno's newer downtown hotels, which makes it within walking distance of just about all of them. It's a family owned business that's been around for over 50 years. This place is known for a Basque cocktail called Picon Punch. The Sante Fe is open for lunch from 12:30 p.m. to 2:00 p.m. Wednesday through Friday, and for dinner from 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. Monday through Sunday.

Names like Santa Fe (per the railroad) are common because many early Basque boarding houses were situated alongside the railroad making it easier for new Basque arrivals to find their new "home away from home.

The Santa Fe Hotel, which sits on a relatively neon-free block downtown. Rebuilt after a fire in 1948, it’s an un-self-conscious time capsule: the bartender still uses the old rotary telephone and cash register when not mixing the Picon punches that are ordered by the round as soon as the doors open at 5 p.m. Family-style dining is a Basque boardinghouse tradition — ‘‘How else to feed 200 hungry men at a time?’’ Oiarzabal says. Any initial awkwardness of eating with strangers will soon enough disappear when out comes a big bowl of pasta soup in peppery beef stock; red beans with thyme; garlicky iceberg salad; tender, tomatoey oxtail stew; seafood paella; and French bread and butter, all served on mismatched cafeteria ware. And those were the starters.

At a Basque restaurant, the only thing you order is your entree — usually lamb or steak — and even then, there’s so much to go around.  Lomo (breaded pork cutlets with red peppers) and steak were plunked down on the table, along with a pile of six double-cut lamb chops that two of us had ordered. They were rare, meltingly fatty slabs garnished with crispy garlic — by far the best lamb of the trip and, at $22, the second most expensive thing on the all-inclusive menu (after the 14-ounce rib-eye, for $24).

Restaurante Orozko

John Ascuaga's Nugget in Sparks is the location of Restaurante Orozko. Yes, John Ascuaga is Basque. Restaurante Orozko, the Nugget’s Basque and Mediterranean restaurant closed, February 16, 2014.

The Star in Elko, NV

Elko, a cowboy town with a strong Basque community is home to the state’s largest annual Basque festival as well as the National Cowboy Poetry Gathering. Only a few Basque restaurants remain, the best of which is the Star Hotel, next to a house of ill repute. Fridays are crowded with ranchers in their best hats and families celebrating over lobster tail and Rioja. Not all of the seating is families celebrating over lobster tail and Rioja. Not all of the seating is family style, and the menu is more varied than in other towns: chicken that’s been grilled and fried, mountain trout, pork tenderloin and spaghetti with fries on the side. There’s also, of course, lamb, garlic and Picon punch all around. The clientele may not be Basque, but the spirit undoubtedly is. As Oiarzabal says of his countrymen, ‘‘We always end up at the table.’’

There are a handful of Basque restaurants on the shabby outskirts of Winnemucca, one of the most significant Basque sheepherding settlements in the 1870s because of its intersecting railroad lines. In the 1950s, Interstate 80 went through downtown, bringing tourists; but in the ’70s the Interstate was rerouted to bypass the town, by then a ranching, mining and minor gambling depot, and business withered. The Winnemucca Hotel, established in 1863, looked to me as if it hadn’t been touched in more than a century: a gorgeous carved-wood bar from the 1850s, sun-faded beer signs and photos, a beautiful old-fashioned kitchen.

The Winnemucca Hotel

Established in 1863, the Winnemucca Hotel mood is party in the front, business in the rear — the bar seemed like a great place to have a chorizo sandwich and get into trouble with ranchers, while the dining room had a church-basement appeal, with brown wainscoting, droopy ceiling tiles and mismatched chairs. I befriended a road-tripping family over beefy onion soup, highly satisfying paella, beans with cheese and tomato, and a platter of mystery meat (half of us thought it was pork, half beef; we drew straws to see who got to ask the combat-boot-wearing cook).

It’s up for debate just how much America has eclipsed Basque Country in these kitchens. Rebecca Moyle, who teaches history at the University of California, Berkeley, and has eaten this food since childhood, says, ‘‘Old-fashioned Basque places often serve you the whole animal over the course of the meal — tripe and organs in the soup, tallow and bacon in the beans, sometimes liver or even tongue. But I’ve noticed over the last decade that fewer restaurants are doing soups with the tripe or showing liver on the menu. And I haven’t seen tongue for donkey’s years.’’ It’s true that for many diners at Basque restaurants, culinary authenticity isn’t an issue. These are as much local hangouts as tourist curiosities, and what makes them uniquely popular are the few remaining elements of Basque boardinghouse culture: huge platters, low prices and plenty of camaraderie.

The Martin Hotel
94 W. Railroad Street
Winnemucca, Nevada

The Martin Hotel was built in 1913. It is a historic hotel building, known also as Lafayette Hotel Annex and as Roman Tavern, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

It is significant historically for its association with commerce in Winnemucca and for its association with Basque sheepherders. It served as a boardinghouse for the sheepherders, and, as of its NRHP listing in 2003, "continues to be known for its Basque cuisine".

It is built in "Vernacular Commercial" style. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2003

A lithograph dated 1881 shows a residence on this property.  Sometime between 1898 and 1908 Alfonso Pasquale opened the Roman Tavern and Restaurant here.  In 1913 Augustine A. Martin and Elisee Henri Martin, both of France, acquired this building and the business was named The Martin Hotel.  In 1920, after a fire, the building was reconstructed with twenty-five rooms.

Rene Martin, Augustine and Elisee’s son, wrote in 1980, “My parents catered to the sheep men and cattlemen.  Although they were not Basque, the sheepherders and stockmen made the Martin their home when in town.  It was not unusual for a herder to come in from this long stay with the sheep, be paid off in full for his work and give the entire sum over to my father.  The herder would then stay at the hotel, eat in the restaurant, play cards, visit with friends and drink in the bar.  My father, keeping the account, would advance him pocket money when asked for and when the sheepherder’s money started to run out, father would tell them so and help them line up a new job.  Then off the sheepherder would go for another long stint with the sheep.”

During prohibition, the hotel and restaurant downstairs prospered while a speakeasy thrived in what is now the attic.  The story is told that when the revenuers found the whiskey, they dumped it all down Melarkey Street and people turned out with cups to sample it as it flowed by.

The Martin Hotel continued as a restaurant after Augustine Martin died.  It was owned and managed by Basque families stretching into the 1970’s:  Yruetas, Bengoa, Bilboa, and Sil and Rosie Uriguen.

The Martin Hotel today is internationally known Basque and American family style restaurant, still home to stockmen as well as wonderful cross section of people from Winnemucca and around the world…and as always , “where friends gather”.